Buyer’s guide

Alternator Problems: Symptoms, Testing, and Replacement

How to tell a bad alternator from a bad battery, simple voltage tests, what a free bench test is, new vs. remanufactured alternators, and core charges.

By AutoPartsNearMe Editorial · Last reviewed

Quick answer: With the engine running, a healthy charging system usually reads about 13.5–14.7 V at the battery. Lower than that, a battery light, or dimming lights all point to the alternator, its belt, or its wiring. Many parts stores will bench-test an alternator for free.

Common symptoms

  • The battery or charging warning light comes on while driving.
  • Headlights and dash lights dim at idle and brighten when you rev.
  • A new or recently charged battery keeps going dead.
  • A whining or grinding noise from the front of the engine, which can be worn alternator bearings.
  • A hot-electrical or burning-rubber smell, possibly from a slipping belt or an overheating alternator.
  • The car dies while driving and won't restart.

Battery or alternator? A quick test

  1. With the engine off, measure battery voltage. About 12.6 V means it's fully charged.
  2. Start the engine and measure again. Roughly 13.5–14.7 V means the alternator is charging.
  3. Turn on the headlights, blower, and rear defroster. Voltage should stay above about 13 V.

If voltage stays near battery level or drops, suspect the alternator, its fuse or wiring, or the serpentine belt. Look for cracks or glazing, or a belt that squeals, and check the belt tensioner. A charge reading above about 15 V can mean a failing voltage regulator, which can damage the battery.

Don't disconnect a battery cable with the engine running to "test" the alternator. On modern cars that can cause voltage spikes that damage electronics.

Free bench testing

Many auto parts stores can test the charging system in the parking lot, or bench-test an alternator or starter you've removed. That's a cheap way to confirm the diagnosis before you spend money. Find a store near you and call ahead to confirm they offer it.

Buying an alternator

  • Match exactly: year, make, model, and engine, and sometimes options like a heavy-duty electrical package or towing package. Amperage ratings and pulley types vary.
  • New vs. remanufactured: reman units are rebuilt to spec and cost less. Compare warranty lengths, since some are limited lifetime.
  • Core charge: expect a refundable deposit you get back when you return the old unit.
  • Replace a worn or oil-soaked belt at the same time, and fix any oil leak that soaked it.

DIY notes

Disconnect the battery's negative cable before you start. Photograph the belt routing (or find the diagram under the hood). Release belt tension with the tensioner, unplug the connector and the main output cable, then unbolt the alternator. Charge the battery fully before installing the new alternator. Alternators are built to maintain a battery, not to recharge a dead one.

FAQ

How long do alternators last?
Many last well over 100,000 miles, but heat, heavy electrical loads, and leaks onto the unit can shorten life.
Can a bad alternator kill a new battery?
Yes. An alternator that undercharges will let the battery drain, and one that overcharges can damage it.
Will a parts store test my alternator?
Many will test the charging system or bench-test a removed alternator, often free. Call ahead to confirm.

References

This guide is general information, not professional repair advice. Always follow your vehicle’s owner’s manual and service specs, and use proper safety equipment.